“One day, I want to dye with Sukumo indigo.”
I wonder how many years have passed while I held onto this wish.
The deeper I delved into the world of botanical dyeing, the more this aspiration grew. Finally, this year, NONA’s journey with Sukumo indigo has begun.
The First Step
There are things we wish to do, yet often postpone, telling ourselves “someday.”
However, it is because I now walk this path with my team that I felt we were finally ready.
To dye with Sukumo indigo is a labor of immense patience.
It begins with the indigo farmer (Aishi) who grows, dries, and ferments the Japanese indigo leaves (Tade-ai) into Sukumo. Then, the dyer creates a living vat using only natural materials to breathe color into fabric and thread. Even after the vat is “born,” it requires daily, dedicated care. Yet, this long-held longing became the driving force behind our new challenge.
Visiting the Indigo Masters of Tokushima
A series of fortunate connections led us to Tokushima, the heart of indigo.
As I crossed the Yoshino River under the clear skies of the rainy season and saw the name “Aizumi-cho” (Indigo Residence Town), my heart began to race.
Visiting "Watanabe's," I was overwhelmed by the dedication of indigo master Kenta Watanabe. He handles every stage of the process—from preparing the soil and cultivating the plants to harvesting, creating the Sukumo, and finally, dyeing. His fields, where compost is made from the waste of a neighboring pig farm and goats graze on the grass, represent a beautiful, sustainable cycle of craftsmanship deeply rooted in the local community.
His gaze, fixed firmly on preserving indigo for the future, left a deep impression. Witnessing such sincerity, we couldn't help but feel our own responsibility to pass this culture on to the next generation.
Time with the Indigo Vats
In the studio, rows of indigo vats in various stages are lined up, with meticulous records kept for each one every day. Each member of the NONA team chose their own materials and began the dyeing process.
Younger vats yield deep, powerful shades, while aged vats offer pale, delicate hues. Immersed in the process of layered dyeing, I found the time spent facing the mysteries of nature to be profoundly comforting. During our training on “Building a Sukumo Indigo Vat,” we attended a lecture by Kato-sensei. His clear and thoughtful explanations gave us the understanding and the courage we needed to begin building our own vats.
History and Culture for the Future
At "Miki Bunko," where we stopped to learn about indigo, we discovered the history of Awa indigo, its tools, and its connections to Awa culture, such as Awa Ningyo Joruri (puppet theater). We realized the depth to which indigo, with its indigo masters and merchants like Miki Shokai, has supported the local culture.
The words of curator Funai, "Dye clear colors," are deeply etched in our hearts.
Furthermore, at "Otanigama Mori Touki," we witnessed artisans making giant indigo vats.
Hearing that there was only one artisan left, we were reminded anew of the difficulty and preciousness of continuing craftsmanship.
Japanese Colors for the Future
Even with the advent of chemical dyes, people preserved Awa indigo without rejecting everything, incorporating the chemical dye business while maintaining their tradition. In these "Japanese colors," passed down through wisdom and effort, countless people's thoughts and history reside.
NONA's "Nihon no Iro" (Japanese Colors) series also aspires to be a small step in connecting that culture to the future.
After this invaluable indigo training in Tokushima, the indigo vat was successfully prepared, and NONA has been meticulously maintaining its homemade indigo and dyeing threads.
A single indigo thread is filled with the dreams and romance, history and love of humanity.
We hope you will continue to watch over our "Nihon no Iro" (Japanese Colors).
Rika
Watanabe’s https://watanabes.jp
Miki Bunko https://www.mikibunko.jp
Mori Touki https://morigama.jp
Click here for the Yamagata "Benibana" (Safflower) travelogue